Secondly, you do NOT hook a battery charger up to charge a battery by applying an alternate ground source, i.e. an engine block. The ground connection for a battery charger, used at a amp rate (trickle charging) should ALWAYS be applied direct to the ground side post of the battery. Hence why, you remove the battery from the vehicle. A trickle charger slowly charges a battery. Trickle chargers are designed to add power to a battery at the same rate the battery discharges itself over short time periods. In this way, the battery charge can be sustained indefinitely, which is ideal for batteries that may not be used frequently, such as marine.
When and Ul to Use a Trickle Charger April 18, A trickle charger provides a more sustainable charge than a quick jump start. Learn about hoow benefits and best practices to using a trickler charger. A trickle charger is a car battery charger designed to be left on a car for a long period of time to re-charge the battery. It slowly hooj the charge to the battery and Escortejenter massasje stavanger sentrum not allow for the normal depletion of charge that batteries commonly have. There are differing opinions of how long a trickle charger can be left on how do you hook up a trickle charger battery and for that reason, different types have been manufactured. Some trickle chargers can be left on a battery indefinitely. These would be used on a vehicle that is not used all the time or is stored away for the winter or the summer.
Take the red or positive cable and attach it to the positive terminal of the battery to be charged. Once you have ensured you have a solid connection, connect the black, negative wire to your ground location located in step 2. It is important to ensure that this negative wire is solidly attached before plugging in your charger. Do not touch the wires while the charger is plugged in and turned on, as serious shock or injury may occur. Once everything is in place, connect the trickle charger to a power socket.
Turn on Charger Once your connections have been made, ensure that all of the proper settings are set as per the manual's recommendations for the type of battery you're charging.
Plug in your charger and set it to the "On" position. Most battery chargers have an amp meter that will read higher on a dead battery, and lower to 0 on a fully charged one.
If this meter reads low, your battery may not need a charge, or your ground connection may not be adequate. Turn off the charger, unplug it and retry the connection if this problem occurs.
Check the charger's display to make sure it is charging properly. If it fails to begin charging after a few minutes, your battery is mostly likely dead and beyond recovery. Otherwise, keep the battery charging until it is full.
Some trickle chargers can safely be left connected for months without doing harm to your battery, providing an easy long term battery maintenance strategy.
Others may only be left connected for a few days at most. Be sure to check your trickle charger's manual for details. Trickle Charger Buyer's Guide The one amp trickle charger is used for charging your motorcycle battery, your golf cart and other small things of the like.
A motorcycle battery will lose one percent of its charge everyday just doing absolutely nothing. So leaving your battery uncharged will likely kill your battery. At the same time, overcharging it will kill your battery. The two amp six and twelve volt battery trickle charger has the convenience of multiple battery connectors. It charges motorcycles, lawn tractors, ATVs and snowmobiles. This trickle charger can charge small batteries or large batteries, and can even be used for classic or antique batteries.
It has two different charging settings. There is a two amp trickle charge rate for six volt batteries, and a four amp trickle charge rate for twelve volt batteries. It has a reverse hookup connection, with fifty amp clamps for top and side post batteries. Spark wouldn't necessary come from jumper cables or charger cables in this case, though, but rather simply attempting to start the vehicle.
It seemed like there were a couple of specific questions you had that I will attempt to answer. Don't attach negative clip to the neg terminal on the dead battery unless you want the car's wiring removed from the battery.
Attach to clean, unpainted part of frame or engine block bolt. This will keep any possible spark or spark arcing away from the potential gas. The contradictory part of whatever website you wrote from in your original question post was obviously either a mistake or the part where it spoke of attaching to the negative terminal was describing the process of jump-starting from a charged battery to a dead one.
In that case you always attach dead-side first, with negative clamped to frame or engine, but the positive and negative attached to their perspective terminals on the charged battery on the other side of cables. Again, the exception is if you remove the car's wiring. The reason you go from dead to charged is to reduce the risk of spark. You can't take the risk of spark away completely, which is why it's better to attach the negative clip away from neg battery terminal.
Same principal with a charger. Don't plug into power until clips are clipped. Just like going from dead to charged when charging from another battery, don't plug in charger until clips are on. Another question I think you had was if there are other types of automotive batteries that don't have this risk.
They all hold the same risk. It also includes all the other information I stated above about safety measures like hooking the negative to frame or block instead of terminal and the reasons for these safety measures: Should car wiring be removed from terminals before charging the battery?
This is a double-edged sword so you'll have to ultimately decide for yourself. When working on the electrical system for repairs, you should remove the negative cable off of the terminal, anyway, so you don't accidentally short a circuit and damage an electrical component. The problems can vary from simply waiting for the 'relearn' process to even having to perform manual resets with a scan tool in order to get certain functions working again.
Worst-case scenarios can require replacement of ECU altogether in order to get certain functions working again. Worst-case scenarios are usually only possible with early 's and later.
There are pocket lists that specify specific problems with specific models out there, but you probably won't find one big, conclusive list for all problems with all models, so research on your specific model is always a good idea. Obviously, this won't help while charging the battery. So that is the downside to removing the cables from the battery to charge it.
That and the risk of spark increases. Also, if you remove the cables, you have to connect the charger's ground clamp directly to the negative terminal on the battery instead of the frame or block. My previous edit stated otherwise and, after rereading it, I realized the error in that statement. The benefit of removing the cables is that it will be impossible for a power surge to damage anything electrical-related in your car.